My throat was tight. My breath shallow. My eyes stung from staring hard at the horizon. We were told to look for shadows in the water or for a fin,
There are four major types of waves. Rolling waves are the most familiar waves, and the type most surfers prefer because they break in a stable pattern. Dumping waves are more unpredictable
When I go to describe something as remarkable as what I saw that day, I could only say it was a place of dreams. The water is crystalline clear, a mixture of opalescent colors and frosted with white tips.
You are going to fall in the water. Your head will go under. Depending on how big a wave you fall on, it’ll be like falling into a cross between a cement mixer and a fast flowing river.